Posted on 11th August 2021

Focus on Hair and Make Up: HD Filming

In the fifth of seven articles taking an in depth look at sustainability in the Hair and Make Up department, we turn our attention to...make up for HD filming

When it comes to makeup that’s going to work for HD filming – are there any brands/products out there that can give the same effect but without harming the environment?

There are many brands and products available that are suitable for HD filming. The key is seamless product application – which, with certain products can mean you have to use slightly different application techniques ie: getting used to products that don’t contain silicones to make them glide on. 

Of course, the more speciality products, such as alcohol palettes, SPFX products, glues, etc are much harder to switch out, because they require a number of key ingredients that have been synthesised to function in a specific way, not yet effective enough solely through natural feedstocks. The key here is to use them responsibly and ensure that the waste after use is disposed of correctly. Many of these products, including nail polish, are technically hazardous waste and should not go down the drain or into landfill. 

The good news is that more and more clean beauty colour cosmetic brands are being developed by makeup artists, so they are becoming a lot more sophisticated and professional-friendly by the day.

Sappho New Paradigm

  • Sappho New Paradigm was developed by Canadian, award-winning makeup Designer JoAnn Fowler.  Their Essential Foundation (liquid)comes in a range of 12 colours suitable for nearly all skin tones. It has great buildable coverage and dries to a semi-matte finish so it does not require excessive powder like a lot of other natural foundations. 
  • Their eyeshadows and blushers are highly pigmented and work well on camera. 
  • The entire range provides very wearable colours and textures, great for both contemporary and vintage designs. 
  • The entire range is vegan.
  • They are currently stocked in Australia, Canada, USA and UK.

Kjaer Weis

  • Kjaer Weis, another range designed by an MUA, this time from the fashion world. This range sees a growing collection of colour cosmetics and now skincare too. While the luxury packaging is heavy to carry around, it won’t go amiss on any A-Listers table. It is a magnetic refill-systems so you will only need to purchase the packaging once – or not at all if you simply want to make pallets and keep costs down. The products are wax and cream based as opposed to liquid and the foundation range comes in 14 colours.
  • While most of the ingredients used are certified organic, KW ensures they are transparent. They have opted for certain synthetic pigment
  • required for true reds and pinks. But every product has a clear indication of what the ingredients are and why they have been used. 
  • Perfect for glamorous, contemporary and period designs.
  • Sold in Australia, USA, Europe and the UK.

Ere Perez

  • Ere Perez. Mexican-born, Australian-made. Natural cosmetics that use active ingredients and natural pigments. They offer a wide range of products at an affordable price. 
  • Their oat milk foundations and carrot colour pots are genius.
  • Available in Australia, Europe, USA, UK

Zao Organic Makeup

  • Zao Organic Makeup – A comprehensive range of colour cosmetics from France. Certified organic by COSMOS |Cosmibio & EcoCert, Vegan, Cruelty Free International. They have some of the darkest cream foundations on the market. Their mattifying primer Sublim’Soft is a brilliant alternative to Makeup International  Super Matte Anti-shine when over makeup(but needs to be blended in well or it can leave a white residue). Their eyeshadow range includes mattes.
  • They also offer a great range of 6 and 10-free nail polishes that are effective and far less toxic than regular nail polishes. Nearly all of their products are refillable.
  • Available in Europe, the UK, USA

(M)anasi 7

  • (M)anasi 7 – yet another natural range developed by an mua. This Swedish range offers a collection of multi-use creams in various finishes. Great for mixing into existing foundations and formulations to change or tweak colours.  The products are made in small batches and the packaging is designed around the principles of “reduce, reuse recycle”. 
  • Could be used for dirt and light fx.

Others

  • Hiro Cosmetics – great concealers, semi-matte liquid foundations and  liquid lipsticks
  • Benecos – affordable eyeliners in a wide array of “fashionable” colours
  • Ilia – transitioning foundation 
  • Inika – great pressed foundations and powders
  • Absolution Cosmetics – Best Demi-matte lipsticks and great liquid liner
  • RMS Beauty – eyeshadows, lipsticks, pressed eyeshadows, highlighters
  • Esse Probiotic Skincare – Biodome friendly foundations, sans silicone. Premium skincare
  • Gressa – Excellent matte foundations, a wide range of skin tones.
  • Jane Iredale – Comprehensive product line. Brilliant Lip & cheek stain
  • Eco by Sonia – safe tanning solutions
  • TanOrganic – safe tanning solutions
  • Concrete Minerals – loose coloured mineral pigments for mixing into various mediums or used as loose eyeshadows.

For specific effects

Dirts

PPI Fleet Street Dry Dirt – While they don’t provide a full ingredient breakdown on any site, they do claim to be the safest on the market and are free from talc, fullers earth and walnut shells (which could cause allergic reactions to people suffering from nut allergies).

Glitter

Most commercial glitter in cosmetic is still made from plastic. When actors wash the glitter off their face and bodies, these plastic particles enter the water system.  Biodegradable glitters, made from plant-polymers are becoming more readily available and come in countless colours and various microns. 

Bio-Glitter

Waterproof products

This is a challenging range of products to recreate using only “clean” ingredients. A lot of natural and organic foundations, creams and lip colours will remain in place under or with water, provided they are not rubbed. If you require completely waterproof products, use only when necessary and choose from brands that have high sustainability practices in place throughout the rest of their business.

Adhesives

Prosaide

True Glue

Sweat

Plant-derived glycerine

Miscellaneous

Petroleum jelly alternative – Waxelene, Jojoba Oil (technically a liquid wax not an oil. Jojoba oil is also the most similar in composition to our skin’s own sebum)

Khandiz Joni

Multidisciplinary artist + Sustainability Professional

About the author

Khandiz is a qualified sustainability professional and has been a hair and makeup artist for two decades. Prior to studying makeup, she attended art school. Her work marries conceptual art and thought-provoking narratives using eco-beauty alternatives.

She is a founding member of the Conscious Beauty Union and runs VUJÀ DÉ Creative Solutions

Find out more about Khandiz at her website

Khandiz Joni

Multidisciplinary artist + Sustainability Professional